Bracketing is
a very useful technique which photographers often use to capture a closer
representation of the dynamic range within images. For example, if you’re
shooting a landscape shot of the sea the sky may be very bright but the water
very dull, so which area do you choose to expose for? If you correctly expose
for the sky, you’ll lose detail in the shadows of the water, but if you expose correctly
for the water the detail in the highlights of the sky will disappear instead.
This makes it very difficult to decide on the correct shutter speed to capture the
correct exposure over the whole scene. This is where the technique of
bracketing comes in very useful. What this involves is repeatedly shooting the
scene but using a different shutter speed for each shot to deliberately
over-expose and under-expose, enabling you to capture detail within all areas
of scene. Once this has been achieved Photoshop is used to stitch all these
images together combining the various exposures to create one perfectly exposed
image. Below is an example/tutorial to show you how this technique can be
achieved.
Firstly, you
need to take your shots, preferably with a tripod as it will be a lot easier to
layer up your images in Photoshop later on. Here are two images below that I
shot a while ago which demonstrate perfectly the need for this technique. I
shot this flower in direct sunlight which resulted in a very bright, harsh
light that was too much for the white areas in the petal yet not strong enough
to capture the shadow detail in the pollen itself, the sun was positioned
behind the flower slightly creating this ‘back-lighting’ effect. Being the main
focus of this image, I need the pollen area of the flower to be perfectly lit.
| Shutterspeed =1/160 ©2013HannahBennett |
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Shutterspeed =1/400
©2013HannahBennett
|
If you feel the scene you are shooting needs bracketing then take one shot
at the exposure your camera tells you to, then move the shutter speed by 1 stop
to underexpose, and also 1 stop to over
expose. For example, if your camera says to shoot at 1/160, to overexpose by 1
stop you’d then shoot at1/100, and to underexpose by 1 stop, you’d shoot at 1/320.
For the example included in this post, I shot the overexposed image first at
1/160 then underexposed the second image by 2 stops and shot at 1/400. (This can
be seen clearly in the pictures above)
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| ©2013HannahBennett |
As you can see in the final picture below, I now have one perfectly exposed image, full of detail throughout the whole frame
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| ©2013HannahBennett |
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